No Borders with Usha Pawar ✨Embroidering Tradition, Empowering Generations

Usha Pawar, a renowned Kasuti artist, is celebrated for her unique eye and passion for this ancient embroidery. At 73, with over 25 years of experience and a National Award in 2016, she preserves Kasuti techniques and shares her knowledge. Usha has been key in reviving Kasuti, helping us create our Kasuti tapestry that brings stories to life. She believes Kasuti, though tied to women’s emotions, is a craft that can be mastered by both women and men.

We spent the day with Usha Pawar in her home and studio, surrounded by her intricate Kasuti embroidery, as she reflected on the experiences that shaped her journey. Styled in all our favourite designers & in-house crafted pieces ♥️

"Kasuti is not just embroidery; it’s patience, precision, and passion woven into every stitch."

As a homemaker who discovered her passion for Kasuti embroidery in 1990, she has dedicated decades to mastering and teaching this intricate craft. With its origins in Karnataka, Kasuti is unique because the front and back of the embroidery must be identical, requiring extraordinary precision and patience.

However, with the rise of digital and machine embroidery, the art of hand embroidery is fading. Usha believes that preserving manual techniques is crucial—not only for authenticity but also for providing employment opportunities to artisans, particularly women.

Women have always been custodians of traditional crafts, yet their contributions are often overlooked. Unlike widely recognized embroidery styles like Kantha or Kutchwork, Kasuti has struggled for exposure. Usha sees this as a critical issue—without awareness, young women may never realize the value of these ancient skills.

Usha’s own work, however, has not gone unnoticed. In 2016, she was awarded the prestigious National Award for her extraordinary wall panel—a three-and-a-half-foot silk tapestry featuring 280 designs and incorporating all four major Kasuti stitches.

Q: How did you first discover Kasuti, and what made you pursue it so passionately?
Usha: I had always wanted a Kasuti saree, but back then, it was only done in Hubli and Dharwad, and getting one took years. I finally got the chance to learn it when Anchor conducted a summer embroidery workshop. I instantly fell in love with Kasuti and became obsessed. Over the years, I collected old designs from sarees and people willing to share their knowledge, determined to master every hidden technique.

Q: What are some of the biggest challenges in mastering Kasuti embroidery?
Usha: Kasuti is very precise—you start without a knot, end without a knot, and must return to where you began. The front and back must be identical. If there’s a mistake, you have to rip everything out and start over. That’s why many students drop out after learning the basics; they find it too time-consuming. But I believe with patience and proper guidance, anyone can master it.

Q:In a world of mass production, how do you ensure Kasuti stays authentic?
Usha: Hand embroidery can’t be mass-produced like digital or machine work. Even with multiple artisans, each piece carries a unique touch. Shifting to machines takes away both authenticity and jobs. Staying true to manual craftsmanship is essential.

"In a world of mass production, hand embroidery is a quiet act of resistance."

Q: What role do women play in preserving ancient crafts like Kasuti?
Usha: Kasuti lacks the recognition of other embroidery styles like Kantha. The biggest challenge is digitalization, which erodes its true essence. Kasuti demands precision—front and back must be identical. With proper guidance, it can thrive.

Q: Have any women artists inspired you?
Usha: I haven’t seen many women in Kasuti, but I admire the embroidery done by the nuns at Christ College. Their precision and technique truly inspired me. Seeing their work at West End and Windsor Manor was eye-opening.

Q: Many women artists face challenges in balancing their personal and professional lives. How have you managed this?
Usha: There were responsibilities, of course, but I never felt discouraged. I balanced my family life while continuing my craft. I believe that if you are passionate, you will find a way to keep doing what you love.

"People often come, document our crafts, and take credit. Many rural artisans remain unrecognized because they lack exposure. We need to promote them and show them that their work has immense value beyond their immediate surroundings."

Q: Do you think India has made progress in recognizing traditional crafts, or is there still work to be done?
Usha: There’s still a lot of work to be done. Many rural artisans remain unrecognized because they lack exposure. People often come, document their work, and take credit. We need to actively find these artisans, promote them, and make them aware that their craft holds great value beyond their immediate surroundings.

Keeping Tradition Alive, One Stitch at a Time

Usha Pawar’s journey embodies the resilience of traditional art in a world dominated by machine-made alternatives. With decades of dedication, she has mastered and revived Kasuti, ensuring its legacy continues.

“I want to share every hidden aspect of Kasuti so young people can learn and keep it alive."

Her work reflects the larger struggle of artisans—balancing heritage with modern challenges. As she teaches and advocates for Kasuti, Usha proves that craft is more than technique; it is culture, identity, and perseverance.

Credits

Producer - No Borders team
Director - Zayira Ray
HMU - Elton John
Set design - Zayira Ray, Elton John & Aishwarya Gajare 

Styled in - No Borders in-house 🪡 & MARGN

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